July 09, 2017
A WEEK END IN MAREMMA History, surpriseing art, large fields: that's what you are going to find in this tale about my last week-end in Maremma!Three days are a few time but often the longer we can get because of work, so it's just fine !I arrived on friday evening and left on sunday afternoon, I had the chance to have a bath in the sea, visit a unique place called Giardino dei Tarocchi, stop in a spare old, misterious, fascinating medieval church, visit the famour Pitigliano, meet amazing sunflowers field along the way.
The TerritoryYellow, burnt or brown lines and 'carpets' shape this wild territory. This is Maremma, the southern part of Tuscany and one of its most unknown places.
It definetly appears different from the ''Tuscany Postcard style'', but you must to know that such a tuscany image only belong to foreigners imaginary, and Tuscany has really different parts, ( the postcards are only one of them.)I am takeing this time to show something I really appreciated down in Maremma; there are places of the heart and unexpected gems like the Giardino dei Tarocchi.In june I think nature is really giving its best ..I can see plants and fields enjoying the heat, the sun, the farmers hard work; and they presents back their colours full of living life.
San BruzioIt was hard not to get in touch with all this while trevelling toward the Chiesa di San Bruzio (Church of San Bruzio) , this middle age time ruin , lost into the countryside. When you meet it you actually you feel blessed because nothing prepares you to such a building hidden into the landscape.
Its structure is ate by the time, but I never wished to see it in the original way, as its fascination is certainly increased by the centuries. The power of the holy stays untouched, that old place still welcomes your prayer, whatever religion you belong to.
For those who can feel it, stepping into it requieres politeness and respect.It is just a small place, with the remains of an altar, but those wrapping walls has something silently powerfull. I feel admired, and hosted by the Chiesa di San Bruzio- I recommend it and for all of you who will go there: please be respectfull of these mankind heritage as it isn't guarded and needs protection and care from all of us.
It's full of wheat, vegetable and sunflowers fields.. they are so great and wild. Here in the south of Tuscany, hills are larger and softer (respect to the classical Siena's hills) so that your eyes can travel further and rarely meeting obstacles.
I breathe freedom overhere. Also because Maremma is so less popular and has not that much turism (especially from abroad) so it's like the people, and the territoy it-self, are less stressed by the human passage. Hope someone of you is going there and tell me what you felt about !
In the evening we went for dinner in Orbetello, in a restaurant called I Pescatori (the Fisherman's) because my boyfriend remembered it as a place where fish was wisely selected and cooked 'at the old way' by real fishermans.It used to work not as a usual restaurant: you go, choose from the menu, pay and then wait for your table and meal. Prices also used to be very cheap.
Nowadays is really not like once as generally speaking it looks like they understood they become popular and it was an easy business so they simply rose the prices enjoyed the comeing cash forgetting about the stress of the good quality. I am not recommending this place, as me too I can better cook the fish !! With my next week end here I'll go for another one and hope to be lucky and give you a good recomendation!
PitiglianoAfter some kilometers from Orbetello I get to the magical Pitigliano, the city of the Tufo. Its is so called because it is literally built and dig into this kind of stone you can only find here: the Tufo.
When you'll arrive you see this amazing landscape as if you are directly in the Middle Age! That day we arrived just in the moment of the "Infiorata" ( a Christian parade which happens in june in all Italy. There is a parade walking along a "carpet" made in flowers or coloured segatura, or sometimes pastel draws. Check the picture down here!) .
I could perceive the team game of all the people involved and busy with preparation; me too I was born and raised in a little tuscan village and I could feel that same excitement and the togetherness.Pitigliano has tiny tufo streets and houses; it's a pleasure to visit it, as a village it's big enogh to have touristic shops, cafes, and all you may need and cannot fins along the open countryside.
It's been my second time ever in Pitigliano and still I hadn't the chance to do something I wish since some time wich is a walk in the "Vie Cave" . It's a special and suggestivo percorso starting directly from this place and getting into the wood. I saw it in a moovie (yes, I admint!) calle The tale of the tales ..if you want to be suggestionati by the idea of a trip in Italy watch it ! Many amazing set are in Tuscany :)
The Giardino dei Tarocchi (The Tarots Garden)On sunday we reached the Giardino dei Tarocchi (The Tarots Garden) which is one of the most weird things you can find in this territory! It's a work of art by Niki De Saint Phalle and it took 20 years for building it! From this artist I also visited the park in California.
It's meaningful and with a strong trace of the feminine nature of this Artist. Lots of blue stones recreating the feeling of getting lost into a blue universe and the darkness that host us before our birth. While in another area crazy colours get along with skeletons in a sarcastic architectural dance with a strong message about life and death. Water flows from many sculpure-fountains and the whole work is -of course- about the Tarots.
You can rise, enter and get into many of these crazy works. I felt somehow at home and also in a place willing you to reflect and stand close to the idea of the death and its familiarity with the principle of life.It took a couple of hours to visit and explore it patiently, paying attention to all the details, but you can also consider one hour for a good visit as well.
When comeing here and you are about lunch time let me suggest a place for pizza 'al taglio' (in slices) which I go to everytime I am nearby! The pizza here is really delicious ! This place is in Pescia Romana (exactly in: via Montalto di Castro – There's not web site I guess, but when you are here you'll find it for sure), there is quite nothing in this town but the pizza is worth it !After that- and being a very hot june- I just went to the beach! The water wasn't at its best and really didn't "call me" for a bath. I enjoyed to lay on the sand reading and breathing the wind blowing. The beach was called Ultima Spiaggia (Last Beach) – There is a Seaside Resort with bar and toilets. It is quiete crowded especially on sunday. Plus I found some makeshift market where I bought the linen stripes shirt you see in the pics !
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